
With the equinox past, the nights are noticeably darker and the sun’s flat trajectory hardly rises twenty degrees above the horizon (no sextant, just a guess). Sunlight barely hits the valley floor anymore. Yesterday I woke up before sunrise and climbed part of the way up the slope behind camp. In addition to a smoky plume, blazing in predawn gold down the its side, Mount Erebus was spewing a stream of clouds high into the air over a hundred miles away. For a few minutes, one dense entity of vapor, resembling something like a Max Ernst painting, received the blurry, pyramid shadow of Erebus itself, cast up from below.

Last night we watched a movie after everyone finished working. I looked past the screen and out the window at a planet moving from left to right, transiting across the window’s eighteen-inch frame in about an hour. Without the bustle of urbanity, and the total absense of animal and plant life, air and car traffic, and any infrastructure or evidence of these things (jet contrails, for example), your focus basically turns to whatever moves or makes noise–each other, the wind, the sun, the moon, stars. Is this how ancient cultures saw their world?
This connection with the planet could be possible in a place like New York, if you had a clear night in the park, and the limitless patience and focus to sit and watch tiny points of light move at an impossibly slow rate relative to what happens around you. From there it seems better to look it up something like this on Google Earth. From here, with a minimum of input on your consciousness, it feels natural to include these things in your daily life.
Half-watching Johnny Depp strum a guitar through Chocolat in the French, I thought about how easy it is to consider and understand the Earth’s motions and processes and how we relate to them, when all I saw move that day were four people around camp, the sun casting shadows, and a sparkling planet floating across a window frame.
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March 26, 2008 at 4:15 pm
JTR3
it seems like you have alot of good weather there, albeit cold of late…do you think that things will get much worse when it comes time for you to leave thus extending your visit? tell me more about helicopters!!
March 26, 2008 at 5:07 pm
Chris
Johnny,
I think we are seeing the basic weather pattern that will continue through our stay. There was SOME talk of the April 17 flight not being able to get out, but it will fly–the weather in McMurdo gets bad but it doesn’t ever last more than a week at the most. The Dry Valleys get steady good weather since the high mountains block some stuff and most of the blizzard-like conditions come from the direction of the Ross Ice Shelf or out over the ocean–we are not in the line of fire.
Helicopters are exciting, loud, fun, and dangerous. Wooo!!!!
March 27, 2008 at 3:47 pm
Katie
that flight damn well better take off!!! =)
March 28, 2008 at 1:16 pm
Ellen
Hi Chris!
We are still very much enjoying your blog and wish you continued safe travels. Your pictures are fantastic!
I believe it is the Wilkins Ice Shelf that collapsed at the end of February. The story was on the News here two days ago. Have you heard anything about it? They said it was seven times bigger than Manhatten. Certainly glad you were not near it! Take care!!! Ellen and Ted
March 28, 2008 at 5:17 pm
Dina Patel
Awe-inspiring !!!!
Best Wishes
Dina
India
March 29, 2008 at 5:41 am
Christine Taylor
I second what Katie said! haha!
March 31, 2008 at 9:10 am
mrs ribbs
Hi Chris, I can’t believe the video from the helo…it looked really scarey. How are you going to readjust to civilization? We miss you, be safe
March 31, 2008 at 9:24 am
Chris
Mrs. Ribbs,
Did you see the new helo video on youtube? I will include it in a new post today. Actually a third helo flight is on the way as well. When I get back to NYC, I decided will only travel by foot or helicopter, just like down here.